Romanian Sirbusca
(Potato and Root Parsley soup-stew)
Deciding what you do with your root parsley once you’ve grown it is easy: you just plump for one of its multiple identities and use it just like you would parsnips, or carrots (or parsley, if you’re using the tops). We had ours roasted alongside the Sunday joint, and very delicious it was too.
But to pay true homage to this most Slavic of vegetables, you need to cook it Eastern European style. It’s jolly cold east of, say, Austria, so it’s no surprise that the local cooking involves a lot of hearty stews and warming soups: inner insulation, you might say.
This one is about as hearty and warming as it gets: it also makes the most of the many virtues of parsley root, using both its underground roots and its topknot of fresh green parsley. I can’t make up my mind whether it’s a soup or a stew (you can make it with the emphasis on either) but whatever, it’s a filling, nourishing and delicious lunch that’ll set you trudging out onto the snow-lashed plains with a glow in your cheeks.
2 parsley roots (or if you happen not to be growing parsley root this year, just use smallish parsnips - and you’ll also need to get yourself a bunch of fresh parsley)
1 onion
1 carrot
1kg (about 2 1/2 lbs) potatoes
1.2 l (2 pts) chicken stock
225g (8oz) bacon
salt and freshly-ground black pepper
Start by preparing all your veg.
Trim the parsley roots, removing the tops, then peeling and dicing them. Top and tail the carrot and dice that too (peel if it’s old-ish, otherwise leave the skin on) and scrub your potatoes before dicing them skin and all. Finally peel and chop the onion.
Put the whole lot into a big pan along with the chicken stock, then bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer, and cook gently for about 20 minutes until the veg are tender.
While they’re cooking, chop the root parsley tops (or fresh parsley if you’re using parsnips) finely. Also cut the bacon into small pieces (if you can find lardons in your local shop, these save you a bit of work) and dry-fry them in a frying pan for about 10 minutes until they’re lightly browned. Remove from the heat and set aside.
At this point, you can decide whether you want it to be a soup or a stew. If you want a soup, put the cooked vegetables through a blender and whizz for a minute or so till they’re nicely creamy. Then return to the pan. If you want a stew – just leave them as they are.
Add the bacon to the vegetables, then sprinkle in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Give the whole thing a good stir, and simmer again for another five minutes or so before ladling into a big generous bowl.
